The next day we drove to Udaipur with a stop-off at Ranakpur. There we stay at an old haveli (mansion) on the lakefront. Our rooms are large and cool, with stained-glass windows, and cost us just US$19 per night!

By now we'd become slightly sick and were suffering from "road buzz", so we stayed in Udaipur for five nights. The power failed every few hours. We would sit in an alcove watching the lake. We toured the lake, the Monsoon Palace, and other local sights. And we swam at the Rang Niwas hotel. At this pool we ran into Harley Shapiro for a third time, an extraordinary coincidence trifecta.